Chalkmarks: Big performance: Tinie Tempah at BCM Mallorca

THERE are men in women’s wigs playing volleyball on the beach and holidaymakers on banana boats in the Med.

There are women sunbathing in tiny bikinis and pub DJs blasting out the latest chart hits, telling punters if they get to the bar now, their drink is free. 

But there are also families splashing around in hotel pools, people on bike rides, others blinking into the sun on balconies and young couples sipping cocktails in bars that are more chilled than a frozen margarita.

Welcome to Magaluf. 

This brash, popular resort has had a makeover. While still catering for those after some lively fun in the sun, it is now also attracting a more discerning crowd. 

Chalkmarks: Planet Dance: Outside BCM in Magaluf
Planet Dance: Outside BCM in Magaluf

Swanky new hangouts on the beachfront offer big white sofas and waiter service. Some say Magaluf is fast becoming Mallorca‘s alternative to Ibiza’s too-cool-for-school night spots – while eschewing the latter’s astronomical prices. 

There was only one way to find out. I put on my dancing shoes and head to BCM, which this year (2014) made it into the world’s top five nightclubs.  

It’s the biggest club in the Balearics and has been pumping out the beats since 1988 when it was started by Mallorcan businessman Bartolome Cursach Mas (BCM). 

Chalkmarks Magaluf makeover: Mega club BCM leads the way
All-night party: DJ Monki at BCM

I arrive at 1am, 11pm is just too early. On the way in I’ve passed streams of young Britons out for a good time and managed to swerve having my photo taken with a huge yellow Boa constrictor. 

The club has been open only two hours and the night is only just getting started – things won’t wrap up until 6am.

Think of any high street club you know, imagine it five times bigger, then think of 4,000 people across three floors with professional dancers gyrating on high platforms. That is BCM. 

The message is clear, it’s even written on the entrance: Planet Dance. Once you’ve paid to get inside there’s a free bar and depending on what night you’re here, you’ll see headlining acts from the UK and from around the world

Tonight it’s Rudimental who won best British Single for Waiting All Night at the Brit Awards 2014, supported by DJ Monki

When DJ Leon and trumpeter Mark come on at 2.30am, the deep booming bass vibrates through the club while partygoers scream an explosive whoop when the lights flash on and off, and the crowd punch the air. It’s enough to loosen dental fillings. 

The buzz is electric. Experiencing the combination of the infectious music and spectacular laser displays meant I don’t want to sit for long – I just wanna dance. 

Two hours later, I head off to find a cocktail and rest my aching feet. I opt for water instead – and splash it on my face. 

After two minutes I’m back on dancefloor. I had after all come all this way and this place is built for it. 

There is something else about Magaluf that has a strange affect on me. Time. It slows down in the day but speeds up at night. 

Two hours later, and I’m limping back the short walk to the three-star Sol Trinidad hotel as the music continues to blast away. 

As I make my way down the street, the sun is already rising, but within ten minutes I’m sound asleep. 

I awake up at 11am with my BCM wrist band still on and the sunlight streaming in through the window. 

The hotel wasn’t luxurious, but it was clean, the staff were friendly and I had a balcony overlooking the pool next door. 

But this isn’t the type of holiday where I want spend a lot of time in my room. I head out for a wander. I only return in the evening to change ready for another night at BCM. 

But earlier as I sat in a cafe drinking coffee, with my sandals off to give my feet still aching, I wondered if there was anything I’d change about much-maligned Magaluf.  

They’ve pumped a lot of money into it – including the beachfront, and laying on extra sand – and I reckon they know their market and have done a pretty good job. 

As for me, I’d change just one thing – next time I’ll bring more comfortable shoes.

Chalkmarks: I’ve been waiting all night: Rudimental on stage at BCM
I’ve been waiting all night: Rudimental on stage at BCM
Chalkmarks: top décor: Mural on the wall of BCM nightclub
Top décor: Mural on the wall of BCM nightclub
Chalkmarks: In town: The three-star Sol Trinidad hotel
Stay in town: The three-star Sol Trinidad hotel
Chalkmarks: Pillow talk: Ten minutes I’m sound asleep
Pillow talk: Ten minutes I’m sound asleep

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